In the entry devoted to CAN MAÑO, I briefly referred to La Barcelona as it is nowadays. But
there is a history behind this neighbourhood that is worth knowing. Let me just
briefly talk a little about it.
Barcelona – Ciutat Vella has a long history behind,
that dates back to the Roman times. But the neighbourhood of La Barceloneta is
a newcomer. It was built in the 50s of the 18th century with plans
designed by military engineer, Juan Martín Cermeño ( See related entry in Wikipedia ). The authorities said it
was built to house the people who worked by the sea and whose houses were
destroyed in the bombardments suffered by the Ribera neighbourhood in 1714 or little after, when
a significant part of the city was destroyed to build the Ciutadella
citadel. That was a blatant lie because
the people who lost their houses in 1714 had long ago established in other
parts of the city where many houses remained empty but you can still read
explanations as this in many city guides.
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| Metro to Barceloneta: L4 (yellow), stops Barceloneta or Ciutadella |
One of the original houses of that time (CASA DEL PORRÓ) can still be seen and
visited in Carrer Sant Carles, 6.
La Barceloneta neighbourhood was built in a
triangular spit of land that cuts into the sea, over the sediments of land and
sand carried over the years by the Besòs River. The houses were humble. They
were distributed in a grid plan and there was only one square, where the parish
church of Sant Miquel was built. Initially the houses had only two floors and
overlooked two streets, to provide better ventilation. Those plans changed over
the years, more floors were added and the height of the buildings increased.
The neighbourhood became more crowded and houses were so small that they are
still known as “quarts de casa” (a quarter of a home).
La Barceloneta was the only neighbourhood of
the city that was outside the city walls, and neighbours accessed the city by
Portal de Mar.
By mid 19th century, life at the
neighbourhood of the Barceloneta was focused in the sea. The neighbours worked in sea-related activities:
fishermen, seamen, shipyard and harbour workers, and people providing services
and materials to these activities. That situation changed by mid 19th
century, when the city council forbid the establishment of new industries
within the city walls. Then, many of those industries moved to Barceloneta,
which was close to the port and near ESTACIÓ
DE FRANÇA (the railway station connecting the textile industry in the city
of Mataró to Barcelona). Very soon La Barceloneta developed a strong metal and
shipbuilding industry.
But after the Spanish Civil War, many of those industries disappeared and were replaced by smaller workshops with diverse activities.
But after the Spanish Civil War, many of those industries disappeared and were replaced by smaller workshops with diverse activities.
Now we still can see in Barceloneta the humble houses of the 18th century, but most of the buildings date from the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th centuries. La Barceloneta has changed dramatically with the opening of the waterfront. In the 20th century, chiringuitos and baños occupied important areas of the beach. With the Olympic Games in 1992, all that changed. Chiringuitos were removed, baños were limited and the beach was open to the public. A whole new neighbourhood was built close to La Barceloneta (la Vila Olímpica). Barcelona won a new space for leisure and, with the arrival of mass tourism, La Barceloneta turn into a preferred place to enjoy the beach. Unfortunately, that boom also modified what had been the neighbourhood main characteristic: the ambiance of a closely-tight, popular neighbourhood, where everyone knew each other. Life-long residents are being replaced by tourist flats.
But you can still enjoy some of the old
Barcelona in places such as Can Maño. And a stroll by the sea is always inspiring.
The video we include (in Catalan, no English
version I am afraid) may help you see some of La Barceloneta history.
Here are two more restaurant suggestions, in
case you don’t feel like and “ethnic lunch” in CAN MAÑO. Both are very worth
the visit and had nothing to do with the tourist traps that have invaded Pg.
Joan de Borbó.
LA MAR SALADA
It is not a cheap
place, but is worth the price.
And they have a
delicious and price convenient lunch menu from Monday to Friday.
Pg. Joan de Borbó,
58-59
RANGOLI
Indian modern food.
Owner Sanjay is a gentleman. Decor is fine and the situation of the restaurant
is very convenient to the beach.
Pg. Joan de Borbó, 78
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