BARCELONA TOUR: THE OLD TOWN IN A SMALL BUS (BUS 120)

When planning your visit to Barcelona, it is very worth to take a look at the web of the Public Transportation Authority, TMB, to check if it is worth to pay a touristic bus or it is better to use public transportation.

As already discussed in a previous entry, Barcelona has a good and quite reliable network of buses and underground. Fares vary. You can buy a single ticket, which is the most expensive option, or buy day-tickets or a T10 card, which are far more cheap.

In any case, if you decide for public transportation, there are small buses with very interesting. One of them is number 120. With a route that covers Raval to barri de Sant Pere, crossing Ramblas and Born, it will offer you a nice trip around the old town and a good idea of the area neighbourhoods. A plus: no tourists use the line, so you are bound to travel with locals.

JAMÓN IN LAS RAMBLAS or HOW TO HAVE A DECENT BITE IN A TOURIST TRAP

If there is a fetish food to Spanish people, that is JAMÓN and, among the different varieties of JAMÓN, the king is JAMÓN DE JABUGO. So, if you want to learn about the culture of Spain, you

The bar in Jamon Experience: you don't have to take the tour to enjoy it

have to learn about Jamón.

For a foreigner, it may not be easy to tell the difference between Jamón varieties. You see that prices range from very affordable to incredibly expensive. Why? It is just a matter of the shop where I am buying the product?

Well, no. There is more science in the matter than that. Different pig species, breed systems, maturation of the meat and, even the way Jamón is cut have an influence on the quality (and price) of the product you are eating.

All this is explained in the tour of JAMÓN EXPERIENCE. For about 20 euros, the tour includes a detailed explanation, plus a taste of six different kinds of Jamón with a glass of cava, wine or beer. You may check for more details at their website: www.jamonexperience.com

From our point of view, it is even more interesting to visit their bar overlooking Las Ramblas. They are almost in front of La Boqueria and the bar is an outstanding balcony to see people going up and down the avenue while having a decent drink with some excellent food. Prices are quite acceptable for the area. Say you have a coca (flat bread) with Jamón ibérico de bellota: that is 5,90 euros. Add some olives (2,9 euros) and a glass of red wine (1,50 euros). Where in Las Ramblas would you find that quality at that price?  

LA BOQUERÍA MARKET: is there still something genuine there?

La Boqueria has deep roots in my mind. In my childhood memories, it is the market where I used to go shopping with my mother. As I grew old, and went to live alone, I went there on Saturday morning to buy the weekend's menu. 

Parades de pageses

Over the years, it has changed, as Barcelona has changed. I guess it cannot be avoided and I have seen the same happen in many other touristic cities, but it is still painful. Why? Because "parades" are being replaced by "souvenir-selling stalls". The usual locals buying in the market are leaving the place, while crowds take photos. I don't think neither locals or visitors are winning with this change. Very soon, the tourists will miss in La Boqueria the experience they are looking for. Will La Boqueria "die out of success"? 

But I am not accepting defeat that easily. There must be still something genuine in La Boqueria. And here is what I have found: 

• Parades de pageses: Farmers from the villages surrounding Barcelona come to the market to sell their products. There are no better artichokes, tomatos or salads in the market. You may find them in their modest stalls in Plaça Sant Galdric.

• Carns Casanovas: It is near Plaça Sant Galdric. Casanovas is a big market stall with a long tradition. I buy my meat there. Is there a better recommendation?

• Petras: when mushroom time arrives, Petras has a good choice of fresh product. When it is not the right time for fresh mushrooms, you may still find a good choice of dry ones. He used to sell eatable insects, until the sanitary authorities forbid it. 

• Celler de la Boqueria: For wine shopping, I am particularly fond of their shop in Carrer Petxina, which is more calmed that its siblings in the market. The choice is not immense but I think it will cover most tastes. If you don't know what to buy, ask for advice, including the magic words "no quería gastar mucho" or "bueno, bonito y barato". 

• Early hours: this is not a stall or a shop, it is a recommendation. If you want to have a feeling of "real Boqueria" go there early on a Saturday morning. 8.30 or 9 am are ok. By then, all the shops are already open but the tourist crowd has not yet arrived. Escape from the market "main street" and favour the side walks. 

I will not recommend anywhere to eat in the market. I think you may find the names of those places in most Tourist guides. I am not going to complain about their quality, but - in my opinion - the crowds of tourists willing to eat there and try "the genuine experience of market food" have little to do with the pleasant experience of market food on the spot.