Barcelona: killing traditional stores

Some time ago, a law was passed. It stated that “old rents” on flats and establishments could no longer keep their low payment, guaranteed-rents. According to the law, owners of rented houses and

Last days of Llobet in Rambles

establishments could increase the rent on their property to market prices.

What has this to do with your visit to Barcelona? Quite a lot. Old establishments of the town, those which are the spirit of the city and make it different from any other city in the world are quickly disappearing to be replaced with franchise stores “vista una, vistas todas” (meaning, “when you have seen one of those stores, you have already seen all”).

 After killing Rambles, the “forces of the market” are now killing traditional stores. Would Barcelonans themselves be their next goal?

Is this the end of Barcelona as we know it? Is this the birth of a new Barcelona made of franchises and cheap supermarkets?

We have already seen many traditional stores being replaced by horrible franchise stores but an important deadline is Dec. 31^st this year. This is the day established to end the rent over an important number of significant stores.

Among them the music stores Llobet or Beethoven in Rambles, el Indio in carrer del Carme or Quilez in Rambla Catalunya. Hurry to visit them if you come to Barcelona before Dec. 31^st. 

Highly recommended article on the subject in The New York Times: http://www.nytimes.com/2014/10/20/world/europe/historic-loss-may-follow-rise-of-rents-in-barcelona.html?_r=0

BCNSPORTHOSTELS: Affordable accomodation in key location

A few weeks ago, we devoted an entry to the Generator Hostel in Barcelona. Most of what we said then can be applied to BCNSPORTHOSTEL in Carrer Perill.

BCN SPORT HOSTEL is located very near of Generator Hostel, just on the other side of the block. Therefore, it is also very near Passeig de Gràcia and convenient to visit Sagrada Familia and enjoy Gràcia.

It is not so well furbished as the Generator, but they have the basic services expected in a hostel at very affordable prices. They have big rooms great for families or groups.

Paying a small extra-amount (3€ at the time of this entry), you may also enjoy the neighbourhood gym. And, if you want to eat something, you may have a bite at Nostrum, just a door away from the hostel (Nostrum has an offer of Coffee w/milk+pastry for just 1€ and meals which are great value for money).

Barcelona at your feet: pavement tiles (panots)

Barcelonins consider the floor tiles that cover most of the city streets one of their identity signs. Over the years, the interest in this humble pieces of the urban decor has increased. Now, their position as a symbol of Barcelona is well established.

Flor de Barcelona is the tile in the middle

You will find prints, t-shirts, chocolates, and all kind of gadgets bearing the "Flor de Barcelona panot". But this is not the only existing panot. In fact, it is said that 18 different tiles or panots cover the streets of Barcelona.

Some of these pavement tiles have been designed by top names in the architecture of Barcelona.

Flor de Barcelona is a design of Puig i Cadafalch

Or the Gaudí tiles that cover Passeig de Gràcia that, as you may have guessed, is made from a design of Antoni Gaudí.

    
If you want to buy a souvenir of Barcelona with a panot print, we suggest the following shops:


Panot Store (Carrer Banys Nous 20, very near Plaça del Pi): all kinds of lovely souvenirs with the Panot Flor de Barcelona print on them

Pastisseria Baylina (Passeig de Sant Joan near the corner with carrer Provença): chocolate panots

Bestiari inside the Centre Cultural Born: has some souvenirs bearing Panot de Barcelona and reproductions of the Gaudi pavement 

Gaudi pavement

Recovered pavement in Centre Cultural Born

For more details:

El Punt Avui on the Panot (Catalan)

Information on Panots published in La meva Barcelona (Catalan)


Article on Panots in Historia de Barcelona (Catalan)

My Top 5 Fake Barcelona

The saying goes "no es oro todo lo que reluce" and in Barcelona, as in any other town, there are monuments that visitors (and locals) considered to be "authentic" when they are just fakes. You are bound to see and take a picture of them as you stroll down the old town, so be aware!

Fake aqueduct remains

Real aqueduct remains

• ROMAN AQUEDUCT: The remains of an aqueduct you can see next to Casa de l'Ardiaca in Plaça
  Nova were built during Franco's dictatorship (I have been said it was meant to be a compensation for the pains the city had endured during the war!). But don't be sad, if you want to see the real remains of the Roman aqueduct that brought water to Barcelona, you may see the remains of the original archs just a few meters ago from the fake ones. 
• CATHEDRAL GOTHIC FAÇADE: The building of the Cathedral took many years, and it was not until the 20th century that funds were collected to built the façade. Manel Girona, a local banker, provided the funds and the façade was built following 19th century plans in neogothic style. But don't be disappointed, there are older parts in the Cathedral, check for instance Santa Llúcia's chapel. 
• GENERALITAT GOTHIC BRIDGE crossing to Casa dels Canonges. Thousands of pictures are taken of this bridge, but it is not Gothic but Neogothic. The bridge was built in 1928 and it was strongly  criticised by Barcelonians of its time. Here is a very interesting article explaining the possible meaning of the skull in the bridge. Unfortunately, there is no English translation.

  

  Fake Gothic Bridge

• ROSE WINDOW IN SANTA MARIA DEL MAR: in this case maybe it is too hard to consider it fake. The original rose window suffered serious damages in the earthquake of 1428 and, some years later, the new rose window was built. 
• DISPLACED BUILDINGS: This is also a special case. The buildings are not fake, but they are not located where they originally were. In Plaça del Rei, for instance, is Casa Padellàs. It fits perfectly the surrounding buildings but, originally, it was were now is Via Laietana. When the avenue was built (in the 1930s), it was moved to its present location. Another building moved to a different location is Església de la Concepció, a worthwhile visit in the corner of Carrer Aragó with Carrer Roger de Llúria.

JAMÓN IN LAS RAMBLAS or HOW TO HAVE A DECENT BITE IN A TOURIST TRAP

If there is a fetish food to Spanish people, that is JAMÓN and, among the different varieties of JAMÓN, the king is JAMÓN DE JABUGO. So, if you want to learn about the culture of Spain, you

The bar in Jamon Experience: you don't have to take the tour to enjoy it

have to learn about Jamón.

For a foreigner, it may not be easy to tell the difference between Jamón varieties. You see that prices range from very affordable to incredibly expensive. Why? It is just a matter of the shop where I am buying the product?

Well, no. There is more science in the matter than that. Different pig species, breed systems, maturation of the meat and, even the way Jamón is cut have an influence on the quality (and price) of the product you are eating.

All this is explained in the tour of JAMÓN EXPERIENCE. For about 20 euros, the tour includes a detailed explanation, plus a taste of six different kinds of Jamón with a glass of cava, wine or beer. You may check for more details at their website: www.jamonexperience.com

From our point of view, it is even more interesting to visit their bar overlooking Las Ramblas. They are almost in front of La Boqueria and the bar is an outstanding balcony to see people going up and down the avenue while having a decent drink with some excellent food. Prices are quite acceptable for the area. Say you have a coca (flat bread) with Jamón ibérico de bellota: that is 5,90 euros. Add some olives (2,9 euros) and a glass of red wine (1,50 euros). Where in Las Ramblas would you find that quality at that price?  

Having a beer in Barcelona: Salut!

Summer is approaching and temperatures are sky-rising. “Terrazas” are crowded with people. Many of them are there for just one thing: have a cold beer!

Estrella: the best selling brand in Barcelona

But having a beer in Barcelona (and, by extension, in Spain) has some little tricks and its own language.

First thing you must decide: Do you want a “cerveza” (beer) “de botella” (bottled) or “de barril” (vom Fass or draft beer)?

If you choose “de botella”, in a bar there are two main sizes: “mediana” (it is the most common size and is 33 cl.) or “quinto” (AKA “botellín”, it is smaller than mediana, 25 cl.). Some places may also have cans of beer but that is not common in bars or restaurants. Cans are more often sold on the street or on the beach by “lateros”. The choice there is only how much do you want to bargain over the price so there is little to talk about.

Next thing with “cerveza de botella” is to choose a brand. Best-selling brand in Barcelona is Estrella (a brand of manufacturer Damm). Similar beers are San Miguel or Mahou (which is far more common in Madrid). If you prefer foreign beers, most bars will have Heineken. Some may also have Mexican “Coronita” or “Sol”. Other brands may be more difficult to find in “common corner-bars”.

There is also a local beer called Moritz, which is quite good. And “cervezas artesanas” (made by small producers) are becoming more fashionable, Cervessa Montseny, for instance, is a very good one.

If you choose “cerveza de barril”, the main thing to think about is size, as there is a limited choice of brands in most bars (very often as limited as just one type of beer).

Smaller possible size is popular “caña” which is about 25 cl. Then, you may have “copa” in some bars (it’s bigger than “caña”) or “jarra”. “Copas” and “jarras” may also vary wildly in size depending on the bar. Most common size is half litre “jarras” (ask them by saying “una jarra de medio”) but in some places there are smaller jarras.

Other bars, specially the tourist traps in Las Ramblas, will directly serve one litre “jarras” as if it was the common size of beer in Spain. It is not. And if you don’t want to have as much beer, feel very comfortable to ask the waiter for a smaller size or complain.

If feel like drinking a less alcoholic mixture, you may try “una clara” (beer and lemon soft drink).

And finally, you may hear someone call “birra” to “cerveza”. If they are not Italian, remember “birra” is slang for “cerveza”.  

LA BOQUERÍA MARKET: is there still something genuine there?

La Boqueria has deep roots in my mind. In my childhood memories, it is the market where I used to go shopping with my mother. As I grew old, and went to live alone, I went there on Saturday morning to buy the weekend's menu. 

Parades de pageses

Over the years, it has changed, as Barcelona has changed. I guess it cannot be avoided and I have seen the same happen in many other touristic cities, but it is still painful. Why? Because "parades" are being replaced by "souvenir-selling stalls". The usual locals buying in the market are leaving the place, while crowds take photos. I don't think neither locals or visitors are winning with this change. Very soon, the tourists will miss in La Boqueria the experience they are looking for. Will La Boqueria "die out of success"? 

But I am not accepting defeat that easily. There must be still something genuine in La Boqueria. And here is what I have found: 

• Parades de pageses: Farmers from the villages surrounding Barcelona come to the market to sell their products. There are no better artichokes, tomatos or salads in the market. You may find them in their modest stalls in Plaça Sant Galdric.

• Carns Casanovas: It is near Plaça Sant Galdric. Casanovas is a big market stall with a long tradition. I buy my meat there. Is there a better recommendation?

• Petras: when mushroom time arrives, Petras has a good choice of fresh product. When it is not the right time for fresh mushrooms, you may still find a good choice of dry ones. He used to sell eatable insects, until the sanitary authorities forbid it. 

• Celler de la Boqueria: For wine shopping, I am particularly fond of their shop in Carrer Petxina, which is more calmed that its siblings in the market. The choice is not immense but I think it will cover most tastes. If you don't know what to buy, ask for advice, including the magic words "no quería gastar mucho" or "bueno, bonito y barato". 

• Early hours: this is not a stall or a shop, it is a recommendation. If you want to have a feeling of "real Boqueria" go there early on a Saturday morning. 8.30 or 9 am are ok. By then, all the shops are already open but the tourist crowd has not yet arrived. Escape from the market "main street" and favour the side walks. 

I will not recommend anywhere to eat in the market. I think you may find the names of those places in most Tourist guides. I am not going to complain about their quality, but - in my opinion - the crowds of tourists willing to eat there and try "the genuine experience of market food" have little to do with the pleasant experience of market food on the spot. 

BAR VELODROMO: Eating in Barcelona from 6 to 3 am

Some days ago, I was having coffee at Velódromo when the waitress commented on their opening times. Then I realised Velódromo is open and serves food at times when all Barcelona
seems to be sleeping. That is worth bearing in mind. It is not so easy to find a nice place, serving good food so late in the night (or early in the morning) in Barcelona. My informant says that if you go there near to its opening time, you can join the handsome night people in having a bite before going to sleep. According to him, they are people working in the surrounding clubs. My informant also says that Velódromo is a traditional bar recovered by Moritz when everybody feared it will be closed. It is lucky that we still have it. 

I don’t think Velódromo is on the classic tourist routes, but if your hotel is nearby or you happen to be strolling in the area, drop by and see. (I think Barcelona City Tour busses have a stop nearby, so if you are a user of this service …)

VELÓDROMO is in Carrer Muntaner 213 very near Av. Diagonal and is open 6 to 3 am, Monday to Sunday. 

Prices vary greatly on what you plan to eat. The place is not cheap, but you have the possibility to choose moderately priced dishes and keep the budget under control, while having tasty food. 

Here is another site’s comment on the place: http://www.bcnrestaurantes.com/barcelona.asp?restaurante=bar-velodromo

My top 5 Barcelona souvenirs

El Traster

Maybe you are fond of tatty Flamencas or you think a Gaudi inspired toro is missing in your dining room. If you are like me, you probably like to have a little something from each of the places where you have been. But not anything goes. It must be something you can look at and remember the good times without feeling ashamed of having spent your money in creepy Chinese-made souvenirs.

If I were visiting Barcelona, I would buy these souvenirs:

-          A chocolate Barcelona pavement in Pastisseria Baylina (Passeig Sant Joan, almost in the corner with Carrer Provença, very near the Verdaguer Metro and in the way to Sagrada Familia). A similar and equally tasty option are the Gaudi chocolates boxes in Chocolatería Cacao Sampaka (in Carrer Consell de Cent, 292 very near Rambla de Catalunya).
-          A Barcelona Taxi reproduction in Kit-a-car (also in Passeig Sant Joan, but in the corner with Carrer Rosselló). It is a cheap and nice option. It is also a good present for kids. 
-          T-shirts in El Traster (a shop in Plaça Sant Agustí Vell and a good excuse to explore Barri de Sant Pere). T-shirts cost 12 €. They also have postcards, bags, knitted figures, and almost anything that's pretty and full of imagination).

Galeria Maxó

-          Galetes Trias Decorated biscuit boxes. This can be found in many shops. Among others, in El Corte Inglés. The biscuits are excellent and you can find an use for the box when the biscuits are over. 
-          Some piece of art in Galeria Maxó (in Portal Nou 29 also very near Plaça Sant Agustí Vell). Prices start at 22 euros for a small 3-D Barcelona door picture, so don't be afraid to go and see what they have. They are open every day from 11 to 21.30 h, so no excuse. 

My TOP 5 FOUNTAINS in Barcelona

Maybe the most widely known fountain in Barcelona is Font de Canaletes, in Rambles, very near Plaça Catalunya. The legend says that you will never leave Barcelona, if you drink from that fountain. Well, you may try and see if it works.

Nevertheless, there are many other fountains in the city. Here is my TOP-5 list.


FONT IN PLAÇA SANT JUST

 

In Plaça Sant Just, five minutes away from Plaça Sant Jaume, is considered by some people as the oldest fountain in town (in direct competition with Font de Santa Anna). It dates from the 14th century but some works were done in 1831. It stood in the parish burial ground (now charming Plaça Sant Just) and, as you can see, it still works pretty well. 


FONT DELS SENYORS

You may skip the fountain in front of Basilica de Santa Maria del Mar. It is just in front but it is so simple, that you probably will not look at it twice. But you should know that the fountain of Santa Maria (1403) was once known as “font dels senyors” (or fountain of the gentlemen) because it was near Carrer de Montcada, where the nobility members lived. It is one of the oldest fountains in the city and has suffered only little modifications since it was built.

FONT DE SANTA ANNA

Font de Santa Anna with the emergency staircase Alejandro mentioned in his comment

This fountain is at the crossing between Portal de l’Àngel and Carrer Cucurulla. It dates back from 1356 and it is said to be the oldest fountain in town. It has ceramics works in Noucentisme style which date from 1918. Next to the fountain, there was a watering place were passing-by livestock could drink (part of the place can still be seen). It is a remainder of the times when there was a cross-road here for travellers coming in and out of the town. Now it is a good meeting point for people shopping in the area. 

A city council information on Gothic style fountains


FONT MÀGICA

This huge ornamental fountain was built in 1929 for the International Exhibition, and still offers a spectacular display of music, water acrobatics and lights which generate over 50 kinds of shades and hues. It was designed by engineer Carles Buigas, and was one of the great successes of the 1929 International Exhibition. The fountain was thoroughly restored for the 1992 Barcelona Olympic Games so that it could continue to offer a unique display to delight all age groups. Every year, Montjuïc’s Magic Fountain is the site for the "Piromusical", a huge firework display with a music and laser show, which is the closing event for Barcelona’s main festival, La Mercè (September 24). The Magic Fountain is located at the end of the Avinguda Reina Maria Cristina just below the Palau Nacional.

Check the Web site to see operating times and dates: Ajuntament de Barcelona - Font Màgica


FONT BARCELONA

Barcelona is said to be one of the cities with more drinking water fountains. There are about 1,600 fountains and 825 of them belong to one single model, known as FONT BARCELONA. You will see this humble fountain in almost every street. That is why it is my 5th top fountain.



If you want to have more information on any of the fountains or even have a map with the location of each of them, there is an APP called Fonts BCN. All the fountains are here, and each fountain with an artistic or historical value is explained in detail. 

5 TIPS to find your way in Gràcia (Barcelona)

Now and them, groups of people visiting Barcelona, take a stroll in Gracia to see the “real” Barcelona, the one that is not yet overflow with tourists traps. 

This car is always parked in Carrer Escorial

It is a good idea. Gracia is no longer the humble neighbourhood it used to be. It became fashionable and, when that happened, the neighbours started changing. From workers and “graciencs de tota la vida”, it changed to young professional couples. From small workshops and “merceries” to design ateliers.  But some of the old times spirit survives. 

The problem is where to find it. 

A few tips may help you: 

1.- Visit Gracia on a Saturday. On Sunday, shops and markets are closed. People wake up late. There is little to see. On Saturday, everything is open and people are on the streets. Saturday is the day. 

2.- Gracia is in its Squares. There are dynamic streets such as Verdi or Gran de Gràcia, but the real charm is in squares such as Plaça de la Virreïna, Plaça de la Revolució, or Plaça de la Vila (aka Plaça del Rellotge). 

3.- Favour the old bars. Gracia is full of modern restaurants, some of them quite ok. But if you are looking for the “real thing” it is better to have your beer in places such as the bar in Plaça de la Revolució at the corner with Carrer Verdi or to have lunch in Cal Boter.

4.- Visit public spaces such as libraries or markets. The public library in Plaça de Lesseps won an architecture award and has a very popular bar. You may come in and take a look. It is on the way to Park Güell. Markets such as Mercat de la Llibertat are a good place to buy your fruit or take away food in a “real” Barcelona ambiance. 

5.- Make the most of popular events. If you happen to be in Barcelona by Sant Medir (beginning March) or Festes de Gràcia in August, you will see streets full of people celebrating. A bit overcrowded but still amusing. 

BORN - LA RIBERA: Have a burguer in Carrer del Rec in PIM PAM BURGUER

If you are strolling in El Born and you are hungry, you have different options to have a bite. One of them was already mentioned in a previous entry: LA PARADETA. It is just behind Born Centre Cultural, it is fish, it is ok, but maybe you would like just a plain, quick hamburguer. Then, there is a small place very near Carrer del Rec where burguers are huge, tasty and well-priced: PIM PAM BURGUER. 

PIM PAM BURGUER is ok. They place is small and sometimes very crowded, but burguers are ok, they have vegetarian options and fries are home made. Not many places around can offer this quality at these prices (and that's why it can be very crowded on Friday - Saturday night).

Here is a map were you can locate them and here is their web page (only in Spanish, I am afraid).

They have also a shop in Carrer del Rec where they sell good take-away food and they have some stools to eat in.

Ouh! and they are open 13 to 1 every day!


By the way, does your Barcelona guide explain that Carrer del Rec is named after the water channel that ran in this street long ago? That water channel was the key factor that attracted many mills and workshops to this quarter. The area was a vibrant, industrial zone before it was demolished after the defeat in 1714. After many years as a poor, forgotten quarter in the center of the city, now the streets are recovering its dynamism. This time there are no mills, but tourists. Still, it is a charming quarter, full of interesting places.

MODERNISTA HOSPITAL DE SANT PAU: the photos I took in my visit

As promised, here are the photos. They may not be proffesional but I hope you will understand. My smartphone is not the top device available ...

You may learn more from Hospital de Sant Pau and its recent rehabilitation in: http://t.co/uRkiCIriML

The best crafstmen of their time worked in Hospital de Sant Pau

It was an innovative ensemble of building devoted to the medical care of the population

There is love for the detail in every piece of work

Amazing glasswork

Ironwork is also outstanding

One of the pavilions

The clock over the main building

Another pavilion: animals decorate gargoyles and ceramic work.

Barri de LA RIBERA - El Born: When Barcelona was demolished

Were now is Parc de La Ciutadella, a whole neighbourhood named LA RIBERA stood 300 years ago.

To make a long story short, in 1705 Catalonia decided to ally with the supporters of Archduke Karl of Habsburg who claimed the throne of Spain in front of the Bourbon pretender. The Bourbons won the War of Succession and, in 1714, Catalonia suffered a heavy defeat. (A bit of history in the Generalitat de Catalunya website).

Taking the wrong side in that war had many unpleasant and long lasting consequences for Catalonia: restrains to Catalan economy, repression of the political institutions, a permanent contempt of Catalan culture and values, and, in Barcelona, the strict watchfulness of the population with guns placed in Montjuïc and in La Ciutadella ready to shoot the citizens, and the complete destruction of a big part of the neighbourhood of La Ribera.  

La Ribera explained in Wikipedia

La Ribera was a vibrant neighbourhood with streets and buildings that dated back to the Middle Ages. All those were destroyed and the only remains to be seen are in Born Centre Cultural . If you go there, you will see the foundations of many houses and streets that were discovered when the works to turn the old market into a public library started, some years ago.

The mediaeval La Ribera was almost completely destroyed but part of its spirit remained in the surviving streets. Until 1971, Mercat del Born was the central market of Barcelona, and the streets that surrounded it were full of shops and dealers working in or for the market. With the closure of the market many of those shops closed, and little by little the activity of the neighbourhood changed. Now most of the old commerce activity has been replaced in favour of restaurants and shops focused mainly to tourists in what is known as Barri del Born.

And yet, something survives: A shop, known as MAGATZEM LA RIBERA (Plaça Comercial 11) still keeps the old times flavour. It is just in front of Mercat del Born (now Born Centre Cultural). And it's good place to buy excellent “bacallà” at a good price. They have also a good selection of wine, olives, and cheeses, among other delicacies. If you are near, come inside and have a look, even if you don’t have to buy a thing. It may not last long. 

LA BARCELONETA: A bit of History and two Restaurant suggestions

In the entry devoted to CAN MAÑO, I briefly referred to La Barcelona as it is nowadays. But there is a history behind this neighbourhood that is worth knowing. Let me just briefly talk a little about it.



Metro to Barceloneta: L4 (yellow),
stops Barceloneta or Ciutadella

Barcelona – Ciutat Vella has a long history behind, that dates back to the Roman times. But the neighbourhood of La Barceloneta is a newcomer. It was built in the 50s of the 18^th century with plans designed by military engineer, Juan Martín Cermeño ( See related entry in Wikipedia ). The authorities said it was built to house the people who worked by the sea and whose houses were destroyed in the bombardments suffered by the Ribera neighbourhood in 1714 or little after, when a significant part of the city was destroyed to build the Ciutadella citadel.  That was a blatant lie because the people who lost their houses in 1714 had long ago established in other parts of the city where many houses remained empty but you can still read explanations as this in many city guides.

One of the original houses of that time (CASA DEL PORRÓ) can still be seen and visited in Carrer Sant Carles, 6.

La Barceloneta neighbourhood was built in a triangular spit of land that cuts into the sea, over the sediments of land and sand carried over the years by the Besòs River. The houses were humble. They were distributed in a grid plan and there was only one square, where the parish church of Sant Miquel was built. Initially the houses had only two floors and overlooked two streets, to provide better ventilation. Those plans changed over the years, more floors were added and the height of the buildings increased. The neighbourhood became more crowded and houses were so small that they are still known as “quarts de casa” (a quarter of a home).

La Barceloneta was the only neighbourhood of the city that was outside the city walls, and neighbours accessed the city by Portal de Mar.

By mid 19^th century, life at the neighbourhood of the Barceloneta was focused in the sea. The neighbours worked in sea-related activities: fishermen, seamen, shipyard and harbour workers, and people providing services and materials to these activities. That situation changed by mid 19^th century, when the city council forbid the establishment of new industries within the city walls. Then, many of those industries moved to Barceloneta, which was close to the port and near ESTACIÓ DE FRANÇA (the railway station connecting the textile industry in the city of Mataró to Barcelona). Very soon La Barceloneta developed a strong metal and shipbuilding industry.

But after the Spanish Civil War, many of those industries disappeared and were replaced by smaller workshops with diverse activities.

Now we still can see in Barceloneta the humble houses of the 18^th century, but most of the buildings date from the end of the 19^th and the beginning of the 20^th centuries. La Barceloneta has changed dramatically with the opening of the waterfront. In the 20^th century, chiringuitos and baños occupied important areas of the beach. With the Olympic Games in 1992, all that changed. Chiringuitos were removed, baños were limited and the beach was open to the public. A whole new neighbourhood was built close to La Barceloneta (la Vila Olímpica). Barcelona won a new space for leisure and, with the arrival of mass tourism, La Barceloneta turn into a preferred place to enjoy the beach. Unfortunately, that boom also modified what had been the neighbourhood main characteristic: the ambiance of a closely-tight, popular neighbourhood, where everyone knew each other. Life-long residents are being replaced by tourist flats.

But you can still enjoy some of the old Barcelona in places such as Can Maño. And a stroll by the sea is always inspiring.

The video we include (in Catalan, no English version I am afraid) may help you see some of La Barceloneta history.

http://www.324.cat/video/3936572/Un-boci-de-la-historia-de-la-Barceloneta

Here are two more restaurant suggestions, in case you don’t feel like and “ethnic lunch” in CAN MAÑO. Both are very worth the visit and had nothing to do with the tourist traps that have invaded Pg. Joan de Borbó.

LA MAR SALADA

It is not a cheap place, but is worth the price.

And they have a delicious and price convenient lunch menu from Monday to Friday.

Pg. Joan de Borbó, 58-59

http://www.lamarsalada.cat/index.php?md=portada&accio=mostra&id=0&lg=eng

RANGOLI

Indian modern food. Owner Sanjay is a gentleman. Decor is fine and the situation of the restaurant is very convenient to the beach.

Pg. Joan de Borbó, 78

http://www.rangoli-barcelona.com/en/noticias.html

A must visit: MODERNISTA HOSPITAL DE SANT PAU (Domènech i Montaner)

You must have included Sagrada Familia in the visits you plan to do in Barcelona. That’s ok, of course. But you may not have included a visit to HOSPITAL DE SANT PAU. That’s wrong.

 

Sant Pau interior detail.
Photo by Jaume Meneses
(in Wikimedia Commons)
Photo Licence in Creative Commons

You really should try to spend some time there. It is not just a Hospital. It is one of the landmarks of the Modernista style and it was conceived by one of the greatest architects that had work in Catalonia, ever. Check Lluís Domènech i Montaner biography in Wikipedia Biography and you will be impressed. He is also the author of such a significant work as Palau de la Música Catalana.

Additionally, it is quite near Sagrada Familia, so you won’t have to spend a lot of time just moving from one place to the other.

And there is still and additional reason to visit HOSPITAL DE SANT PAU. A four-year rehabilitation has been done to make the pavilions recover their past glory. It still to be completed, but the main building and some of the pavilions have already been rehabilitated and are open to the public in paid visits.

In this City Council link some details on the rehabilitation works are given. Unfortunately, there is no English translation. I will translate just a small piece of text so you can see the rehabilitation goals: “The works in Sant Pau have been done following the original project thought by Lluís Domènech i Muntaner and built between 1905 and 1930. A work that did not end until six years after the death of the architect, and that could be finished because the architect’s son took charge of them. With the aim to keep the primary essence of the buildings, and exactly as if they were treating a human patient, the building have been taken the maximum care to preserve every architectural detail.”

Here is the link to the visit website, which also includes relevant data regarding the Hospital history (which dates back to the Middle Ages) and the Modernista buildings:

http://www.visitsantpau.com/en/

I will include some photos of my visit to the Hospital in a separate entry.